Richard Juhlin went to two world-class tastings in the Nordic countries. [ read the full champagne story ]
Estimated reading time: 5 minutes
A WINE ORGY IN HELSINKI
Like a Zombie I washed myself and got dressed with the light hand luggage in hand. Slept in the taxi, half-asleep at the security check, was completely knocked out on the plane and closed my eyes the whole way from Helsinki Airport to Hotel Haven where Pekka Nuikki and his beautifully motley international group of winemakers, journalists and the world’s greatest wine collectors were patiently waiting for me. The Indians and Australians dominated, closely followed by the English, Americans and Finns. I myself was the only one from Sweden and ended up in a lovely hot air straight away with a blind pair of Krug Vintage from 1959 and 1961 in front of me. Luckily I went the right way. They weren’t exactly in the best condition and generally the champagnes were probably the ones in the worst condition in this top 100 tasting that Pekka has collected over the years. One exception was a perfect 1966 Comtes de Champagne which was considerably livelier than the 1973 Comtes it had alongside it.
No, it was the red wines that impressed me the most
And left the strongest memory for me this time. At this level, it is impossible to just collect perfect bottles and one or two of the most legendary ones may have been “Fake Bottles” as they were not recognizable at all. 1947 Cheval Blanc was probably a Cheval Blanc, but hardly the heroic and port-like 47 that the label promised. 1961 Lafleur is supposed to be something similar and is today one of the world’s most expensive red Bordeaux, but it felt thin and diluted. Otherwise, it was a completely unreal cannonade of heroic legends in different styles where only the Burgundies were conspicuously absent as Pekka decided to save them for a gigantic tasting of his own this winter that I absolutely must not miss.
A big fan of American red wines
I know that Pekka is a big fan of American red wines and I have to say that I understand him better than before even though I myself always prefer the French models. Screaming Eagle, which I have generally considered to be the world’s most over-hyped wine and sometimes found almost undrinkable in its excessive oakiness, was really good this time. So were Harlan and Caymus Special Select. We also got to try some really elegant young Bordeaux-inspired wines from Roam Estate, where the likeable Mario Roam Sculatti himself participated and navigated us through all the vintages he made of Sleeping Lady Cabernet, with 2016 as the highlight. It was still 1990 Grange and 2015 Masseto that took home the prize for me among the wines that came from outside France. Grange also had an exciting joint venture wine that Peter Gago made together with Jaboulet. 2021 Grange La Chapelle cost a fortune but was a joy to enjoy with its fine French terroir and enormous blueberry fruit from Australia. The 1990 Jaboulet La Chapelle was also a legend that held up well. Quite on par with the 83, but not quite on par with the estate’s best, the 1978, which I’ll have to try another time. The 2018 versions of La Mouline and La Landonne from Guigal were also impressive but far too oaky and young for now.
So in conclusion to the summary of the canon of great Bordeaux wines we drank
The emphasis was on old wines and then, as is known, the bottle variation is greater. Let me state that the 1982 Margaux on magnum was at least as good as the 1959 Petrus also the one on magnum for dinner and the 1996 Margaux is already a legend while the 61 was hardly in the condition it should be. The monumental 1945 and 1961 Latour were both found among the winners. The unique style that Cheval Blanc represents is perhaps my favorite, but the bottles could have been better this time. Haut-Brion is never my favorite chateau, but they are always delicious and reliable without having the depth of a Latour or the elegance of a Lafite. The 2005 Haut-Brion was a brilliant young powerhouse and the 1995 was ultra-pleasant. The 1966 Palmer this time beat the more famous 1961 from the estate and the 2009 Lafleur was an unusually beautiful monster when the 61 failed. Mouton-Rothschild almost never impresses me, so neither this time. My unexpected winner in Helsinki is spelled 2008 Le Pin. A castle whose wines I have always found too over-extracted and oaky with florally jammy “New World traits”. Certainly, always very good, but larvally high priced due to the rarity and location. But oh, what a shock I got when the young and sensually voluptuous pair 2008 and 2009 Le Pin appeared before my discerning nose. So unmistakably clear Pomerol with a Petrus concentration on a world-class purple floral scented scale. Violets, peonies, roses and orchids together with purple plums, blackberries and raspberry jam and creamy grape while the acidity sat like a slap. Here I had to reconsider my previous impressions. Le Pin is now incredibly good, and I will always be hunting for the next bottle!
Once again, thank you Björn and Pekka for letting me be a part of these unlikely events. I promise to do my best to convey how magnificent your choreography is to those who can and want to listen so that they can share at least a little bit of all the voluptuousness that your abundant wine glasses whisper or that Nieport’s rare 47 screams out. Your deeds are invaluable as points of reference for wine lovers all over the world.
// RJ
