Champagne Deutz has released the 2018 vintage of the two single-vineyard champagnes – La Côte Glacière and Meurtet. [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 10 minutes
Champagne Deutz, a venerable house founded in Aÿ in 1838, has long been celebrated for its elegant and refined Champagnes. While their Brut Classic and vintage expressions are well-known, a deeper exploration reveals their commitment to showcasing the nuanced beauty of individual parcels. This dedication culminates in their exquisite single-vineyard Champagnes: Hommage à William Deutz La Côte Glacière and Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet. These two distinct Pinot Noir expressions, both originating from the esteemed Grand Cru village of Aÿ, offer a profound insight into the diverse character of this renowned terroir.
The “Hommage à William Deutz” cuvées reflect the House’s creative freedom and allow for artistic expression through prestigious, limited editions. These champagnes pay tribute to the founder’s legacy while highlighting terroirs of exceptional character. In 2018, two emblematic vineyard sites – La Côte Glacière and Meurtet – gave rise to vintage champagnes from single vineyards with Pinot Noir, enhanced by an exceptional vintage. These unique creations perfectly illustrate the House’s philosophy: to highlight the splendor of the Aÿs terroirs through elegant and refined wines that combine power, minerality and finesse.
A Tribute to Origins: The Hommage à William Deutz Collection
The “Hommage à William Deutz” series is a heartfelt tribute to the house’s founder, who was captivated by the hillside vineyards of Aÿ upon his arrival in the region. This collection represents Deutz’s philosophy of non-interventionist winemaking and a belief that time is an essential ingredient in crafting wines that are luminous, fresh, and profound. By isolating and vinifying grapes from specific, exceptional plots, Deutz aims to capture the purest expression of these unique micro-terroirs.
Both La Côte Glacière and Meurtet are 100% Pinot Noir, a grape that thrives in Aÿ’s chalky soils and favorable exposures. While sharing a common origin in this Grand Cru village, their individual characteristics are a testament to subtle differences in their vineyard sites and the resulting wine profiles.
La Côte Glacière: Opulence and Generosity from a Sun-Drenched Slope
La Côte Glacière (literally “The Glacier Slope”) is a vineyard parcel characterized by its steep, south-facing slope. This ideal exposure ensures optimal ripeness for the Pinot Noir grapes, which are harvested from vines that are often around 50 years old. This age contributes to lower yields and a greater concentration of flavor in the fruit.
Vineyard Characteristics:
- Location: Aÿ, Grand Cru village
- Grape Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
- Exposure: Steep, south-facing slope
- Vine Age: Approximately 50 years old
- Soil: Predominantly chalky, typical of Champagne’s best crus.
Sensory Profile:
Champagne Deutz’s La Côte Glacière is often described as opulent, generous, and rich. On the nose, it typically presents an expressive bouquet of ripe stone fruits (pear, peach) with floral notes, sometimes hinting at lilac or exotic honey. The palate is seductive with its generosity and concentration, offering a beautiful balance between purity and complexity. There’s a subtle minerality from the chalky subsoil, often culminating in a refined, persistent finish with a fine iodine note. This Champagne is known for its ability to age gracefully, developing even greater depth and nuance over time.
Ideal Pairings:
Given its richness and complexity, La Côte Glacière excels with substantial dishes. Think grilled lobster, tuna carpaccio, partridge pastilla, or soft, creamy cheeses. Its structure allows it to stand up to richer flavors while its freshness keeps the palate engaged.
2018 Deutz ‘Hommage à William Deutz La Côte Glacière‘
100PN
95(91)p
TASTING NOTE Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin ‘I usually find it extremely even between the slightly steeper and sunnier location La Côte Glacière and the cooler Meurtet with older vines, but this time they were far apart at the start. Meurtet is a bit knotty and cooked vegetal in the aroma, while La Côte Glacière radiates like the sun directly. At Deutz, they have noticed that the trend is clear. Meurtet takes longer to find itself and the right track towards maturity. That may be so, but will it ever catch up with La Côte Glacière this vintage? Allow me to doubt it.’
In 2012, Hommage a William Deutz from Aÿ was divided into two locations to show even greater terroir character than 2010. There are two parameters that pull in different directions from the two pinot locations Deutz chose to separate as vineyard wines in Aÿ. On the one hand the age of the vines which varies quite significantly and the angle of the sun where Meurtet has a cooler position. This should make Meurtet a little shyer and less sun-ripened. That was the case in 2012, but on my first taste of the two in 2015, I found greater resilience, minerality and slightly greater depth in sun-catching La Côte Glacière. It is difficult to deduce the explanation and the future will show whether this will be the truth further ahead. Of course, the differences are small and both are dominated from the start by the vintage’s softness and super rich fruit. The basic notes in both are sweet ripe pears and strawberries, but with underlying extracts that will be highlighted in a couple. Extremely good and exciting wines to taste side by side every time. At present, this is my winner.
Meurtet: Velvety Texture and Elegant Restraint
In contrast to the vibrant generosity of La Côte Glacière, Meurtet offers a more restrained and elegant profile. This parcel is also situated in Aÿ and exclusively planted with Pinot Noir. While specific details on its precise orientation might vary, it contributes to a different aromatic and textural expression.
Vineyard Characteristics:
- Location: Aÿ, Grand Cru village
- Grape Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
- Soil: Chalky, providing the characteristic minerality of Aÿ.
Sensory Profile:
The Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet is characterized by its velvety texture and a balanced, fresh profile. The nose often reveals aromas of white and yellow fruits, such as apricot and bigarreau cherry, evolving to include subtle red fruit notes like cherry or raspberry. The palate is harmonious and courteous, with a noticeable tension from the chalky subsoil that carries through to a long, mineral-driven finish. It showcases the nobility of the fruit and the terroir in a more nuanced and understated way than La Côte Glacière. This Champagne is celebrated for its finesse and aromatic depth.
Ideal Pairings:
Meurtet’s elegance makes it a versatile companion. It shines as an aperitif, setting the stage for a gastronomic meal. It pairs beautifully with delicate seafood like langoustines or oysters, seared foie gras, scallops, or even poultry and tuna dishes prepared with a light touch. Its fresh acidity and delicate fruit notes make it adaptable to both traditional and subtly exotic cuisine.
2018 Deutz ‘Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet’
100PN
93(87)p
TASTING NOTE Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin ‘I usually find it extremely even between the slightly steeper and sunnier location La Côte Glacière and the cooler Meurtet with older vines, but this time they were far apart at the start. Meurtet is a bit knotty and cooked vegetal in the aroma, while La Côte Glacière radiates like the sun directly. At Deutz, they have noticed that the trend is clear. Meurtet takes longer to find itself and the right track towards maturity. That may be so, but will it ever catch up with La Côte Glacière this vintage? Allow me to doubt it.’
There are two parameters that pull in different directions from the two pinot locations Deutz chose to separate as vineyard wines in Aÿ. On the one hand the age of the vines which varies quite significantly and the angle of the sun where Meurtet has a cooler position. This should make Meurtet a little shyer and less sun-ripened. That was the case in 2012, but on my first taste of the two in 2015, I found greater resilience, minerality and slightly greater depth in sun-catching La Côte Glacière. It is difficult to deduce the explanation and the future will show whether this will be the truth in the future. Of course, the differences are small and both are dominated from the start by the vintage’s softness and super rich fruit. The basic notes in both are sweet ripe William pears and strawberries, but with underlying extracts that will be highlighted in a couple of years. Extremely good and exciting wines to drink side by side every time. At present, Meurtet gets to see itself beaten with a nose length.
Winemaking Philosophy: Precision and Purity
Deutz’s approach to these single-vineyard Champagnes emphasizes precision and a deep respect for the fruit. The grapes are hand-picked and meticulously sorted to ensure only the highest quality fruit is used. While specific details for each cuvée may vary by vintage, the general winemaking process for Deutz’s single-vineyard expressions often involves:
- 100% Pinot Noir: Ensuring a pure expression of the grape from each specific plot.
- Separate Vinification: Each parcel’s grapes are vinified individually, often in stainless steel tanks, to preserve their unique characteristics and terroir expression.2
- Malolactic Fermentation: Typically undergone to soften the acidity and add complexity.
- Dosage: Brut, usually between 6 and 12 g/l, allowing the wine’s intrinsic character to shine.
- Extended Lees Aging: The wines undergo prolonged aging on their lees in Deutz’s historic chalk cellars, which is crucial for developing their fine effervescence, aromatic complexity, and depth.3 This period can extend for several years (e.g., 7 years for some vintages of La Côte Glacière).
Conclusion
The Hommage à William Deutz La Côte Glacière and Meurtet are more than just Champagnes; they are liquid portraits of specific plots within the illustrious Aÿ Grand Cru. They demonstrate Deutz’s mastery of Pinot Noir and their unwavering commitment to revealing the subtle yet profound differences that terroir can impart. For the discerning Champagne connoisseur, these single-vineyard bottlings offer an unparalleled opportunity to explore the intricate tapestry of flavors and textures that define the very best of Champagne. They are a true testament to the legacy of William Deutz and the enduring splendor of Aÿ’s vineyards.
An ode to La Côte Glacière & Meurtet
Ice and Ancient Earth
From the white embrace of chalk, a whisper rises,
where shadows of Roman wines lingered.
La Côte Glacier, a vein in the silence,
ice’s memory, melted in the sun’s embrace.
–
The cold’s clarity, like a star-filled night,
caught in a bubble, timeless, fragile.
A moment of shimmer, then the deep,
a wind rushes over fields long gone.
–
Meurtet, the other, darker, more earth.
The oak breathes there, ancient and heavy.
A scent of bygone autumns, damp soil,
a resonance from roots buried deep.
–
Here the earth sings its dull hymn,
of the stone’s patience, of time’s passage.
Every drop a mirror, a portal,
to the past that never truly dies.
–
Two souls in a bottle, separate, yet one.
A dance between light and shadow, white and dark.
Like memories, they flow, past us swiftly,
but leave traces, a silent, vibrating tone.
–
Taste the silence, listen to the hidden,
that which grows from the frozen, from the black.
A secret from the earth, dissolved in a glass.
A moment of presence, before all becomes memory.
