Champagne Club tasted the new vintage – 2018 – of ‘Hommage à William Deutz La Côte des Glacières’ & ‘Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet’ from Deutz. [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 6 minutes
Hommage à William Deutz
The “Hommage à William Deutz” collection is a testament to the house’s heritage and a tribute to its visionary founder. This range showcases exceptional single-vineyard Champagnes, each expressing the unique terroir from which it originates. The two wines in question, ‘Hommage à William Deutz Clos des Glacières’ and ‘Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet,’ represent the pinnacle of Deutz’s winemaking artistry, offering distinct yet equally compelling expressions of their respective crus. These wines are produced in limited quantities, often only in the most exceptional vintages, making them highly sought after by connoisseurs and collectors alike. The winemaking philosophy behind these cuvées emphasizes minimal intervention, allowing the purity of the fruit and the character of the vineyard to shine through. Long aging on the lees further enhances their complexity and refines their texture, leading to Champagnes of profound elegance and longevity.
Deutz, one of Champagne’s venerable houses, has a history steeped in tradition and a relentless pursuit of excellence. Founded in 1838 by William Deutz and Pierre-Hubert Geldermann, the house quickly established a reputation for quality, particularly in the discerning markets of England and Germany. Situated in Ay, in the heart of the Montagne de Reims, Deutz has access to some of Champagne’s most prestigious vineyards, allowing them to craft wines of remarkable depth and complexity.
The “Hommage à William Deutz” collection is a testament to the house’s heritage and a tribute to its visionary founder. This range showcases exceptional single-vineyard Champagnes, each expressing the unique terroir from which it originates. The two wines in question, ‘Hommage à William Deutz La Côte des Glacières’ and ‘Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet,’ represent the pinnacle of Deutz’s winemaking artistry, offering distinct yet equally compelling expressions of their respective crus. These wines are produced in limited quantities, often only in the most exceptional vintages, making them highly sought after by connoisseurs and collectors alike. The winemaking philosophy behind these cuvées emphasizes minimal intervention, allowing the purity of the fruit and the character of the vineyard to shine through. Long aging on the lees further enhances their complexity and refines their texture, leading to Champagnes of profound elegance and longevity.
Whispers of Terroir: A Duel of Grandeur from Deutz’s Hommage
There are moments, fleeting and sublime, when a Champagne transcends the mere act of drinking and becomes an experience, a journey into the very soul of the land. Such are the moments bestowed upon us by the ‘Hommage à William Deutz’ collection, and in particular, the exquisite tension and profound beauty found within the ‘La Côte des Glacières’ and ‘Meurtet’ cuvées. These are not merely wines; they are liquid elegies to terroir, bottled expressions of the inimitable spirit of William Deutz himself, a man whose foresight shaped a legacy of unyielding quality.
Hommage à William Deutz La Côte des Glacières
Let us first turn our gaze, and indeed our palates, to the Hommage à William Deutz La Côte des Glacières Ah, La Côte des Glacières! The very name conjures images of a secluded sanctuary, a microclimate of whispered secrets and profound geological wisdom. Here, in this sacred plot, Deutz cultivates Pinot Noir, and what a Pinot Noir, it is! To hold a glass of this golden elixir is to be enveloped in a symphony of purity. The nose, initially reticent, unfurls with an almost ethereal elegance. Think of crushed oyster shells mingling with the faintest hint of white truffle, a whisper of lemon zest, and the alluring embrace of toasted brioche. There’s a mineral tension here, a tautness that speaks of ancient soils and a deep-rooted connection to the chalk.
Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet
Then, we pivot, and with a sense of anticipation, we encounter the magnificent Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet. If Clos des Glacières is a whispered secret, Meurtet is a grand declaration, a powerful statement of Pinot Noir’s majestic potential from the very heart of the Aÿ Grand Cru. The colour alone tells a story: a deeper, more alluring gold, hinting at the gravitas within. The bouquet is a richer, more brooding affair, a tapestry woven with notes of wild strawberries, black cherries, and a touch of rose petal, underscored by the seductive earthiness of forest floor and a hint of exotic spice. This is Pinot Noir in its most eloquent form, revealing its layered complexity with each slow inhalation.
Upon tasting, the wine explodes on the palate with a captivating intensity. There’s a generosity to the fruit, a ripe lusciousness that is immediately engaging, yet it is beautifully framed by a firm, elegant structure. The tannins, though present, are remarkably fine-grained, offering a gentle grip that speaks of long aging and meticulous craftsmanship. Red berry fruits intertwine with notes of ginger, a hint of liquorice, and a smoky minerality that is utterly captivating. The finish is a masterclass in persistence, a lingering embrace that echoes the wine’s inherent power and finesse. This is a Champagne of true pedigree, a testament to the profound depth and character that only the finest Pinot Noir from a Grand Cru site can achieve. It demands attention, rewards contemplation, and leaves an indelible mark on the memory.
To truly appreciate the genius of Deutz, one must experience these two wines in tandem. They offer a fascinating dialogue, a nuanced conversation between the refined power of Pinot Noir, from two unique clos and the commanding power from a renowned Grand Cru. One is a whisper of purity, the other a resonant declaration of character. Both, however, are united by an unwavering commitment to quality, a profound respect for the land, and a legacy forged in the spirit of William Deutz. These are not merely wines to drink; they are wines to savour, to reflect upon, and to remember. They are, quite simply, liquid poetry.
2018 Deutz ‘Hommage à William Deutz La Côtes des Glacières’
95(91)p
100PN
2018 Deutz ‘Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet’
93(87)p
100PN
TASTING NOTE ‘I usually find it extremely even between the slightly steeper and sunnier location La Côte des Glacières and the cooler Meurtet with older vines, but this time they were far apart at the start. Meurtet is a bit knotty and cooked vegetal in the aroma, while La Côte des Glacières radiates like the sun directly. At Deutz, they have noticed that the trend is clear. Meurtet takes longer to find itself and the right track towards maturity. That may be so, but will it ever catch up with La Côte des Glacières this vintage? Allow me to doubt it.’
