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The Michelin Guide in the Nordic Countries: A Culinary Compass or a Redundant Relic?

  • Guide Michel
Picture of Björnstierne Antonsson - TheChampagneSommelier

Björnstierne Antonsson - TheChampagneSommelier

TheChampagneSommelier reflects on the latest addition of starts from Guide Michel in the Nordic countries. [read the full champagne story] 

Estimated reading time: 5 minutes

Ah, the Nordic countries. A land of stark beauty, interminable winters, and, more recently, a culinary scene that has, much to the chagrin of traditionalists, prised itself from the comforting embrace of meatballs and pickled herring. And at the heart of this gastronomic transformation, or perhaps, hovering somewhat aloofly above it like a perpetually disgruntled cloud, is the venerable Guide Michelin. One might imagine the tyre-maker’s secretive inspectors, bundled in sensible anoraks, navigating the treacherous ice roads of Norway or the windswept Faroe Islands, all in pursuit of a perfectly emulsified sauce or a meticulously sourced root vegetable. One almost pities them. Almost.

Ignored for years

For years, the red guide, that arbiter of taste and tormentor of chefs, largely ignored the frigid northern reaches. Their gaze, much like a sun-starved tourist, rarely ventured beyond the well-trodden paths of Paris, London, and the occasional sun-drenched Italian piazza. Nordic cuisine, to the uninitiated, was a provincial affair, best enjoyed by those with a constitutional aversion to flavour and a penchant for fermentation. But then, something rather inconvenient happened: Nordic chefs, with their relentless pursuit of purity, seasonality, and an almost fetishistic devotion to the local terroir, started cooking rather well. Damn them.

It started with Noma

Suddenly, Copenhagen wasn’t just about Lego and melancholic detectives; it was a beacon of culinary innovation. Noma, of course, became the poster child, achieving a stratospheric fame that must have made the Michelin mandarins choke on their foie gras. And while the guide was, eventually, dragged kicking and screaming into acknowledging this frosty revolution, one can’t help but feel they’re still playing catch-up, like a particularly sluggish Nordic deer caught in the headlights of progress.

The latest MICHELIN Guide Nordic Countries 2025

A meticulously compiled list of 282 recommended establishments, boasts its share of the sublime. Six restaurants now brandish the coveted Three Stars, a testament to culinary experiences so profound they might just convince you to sell a kidney for a reservation. Fifteen possess Two Stars, offering cooking deemed “excellent” – a rather lukewarm compliment, one might argue, given the Herculean effort involved. And a further 75 cling to a single star, a precarious perch on the precipice of gastronomic greatness or, equally, the slippery slope of culinary mediocrity.

But let’s be blunt, shall we? While the guide trumpets the rise of “mindful practices” and the proliferation of “Green Stars” – a nod to those earnest souls who care about the planet as much as their hollandaise – one wonders if this is a genuine embrace of Nordic values or merely a shrewd marketing manoeuvre. Are the inspectors truly discerning the subtle nuances of locally foraged seaweed, or are they simply ticking boxes on a corporate checklist?

Faroe Islands

Take the Faroe Islands, for instance. PAZ, a restaurant, has apparently burst onto the scene with a two-star entry, an astonishing feat for an archipelago primarily known for its sheep and a distinct lack of direct flights. One can almost hear the Michelin inspector, after days of battling the elements and the local language, sighing with relief at a dish that “pays homage to local traditions with outstanding reinterpretations.” One suspects a slight exaggeration, a desperate yearning for a truly stellar meal after weeks of what can only be described as culinary Siberia.

Copenhagen, Stockholm and Helsinki

The impact on tourism is undeniable. Cities like Copenhagen, Stockholm, and Helsinki are now magnets for the gastronomic pilgrim, credit cards at the ready, prepared to spend sums that would make a sane person weep. The lure of a Michelin star, however earned or bestowed, transforms a simple meal into an “experience” – a pilgrimage, even. And while this influx of discerning diners has undoubtedly breathed new life into the Nordic hospitality scene, one must question the true value of such accolades. Are we truly seeking out exceptional food, or are we simply chasing a badge of honour, a culinary tick-box on the grand tour of pretentious dining?

The guide, in its stoic, red-bound glory, continues to exert its formidable influence. It dictates trends, creates legends, and, occasionally, overlooks a hidden gem or two. It is, in essence, a map – but a map drawn by a peculiar cartographer with a penchant for hyperbole and a blind spot for genuine, unpretentious deliciousness. So, if you’re venturing north in search of gastronomic enlightenment, by all means, consult the guide. But do so with a healthy dose of cynicism, a well-padded wallet, and a profound appreciation for the absurd. Because in the world of fine dining, as in life, the greatest delights are often found off the beaten track, unstarred, and utterly, gloriously, unpretentious.

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