Richard Juhlin tasted the new 2018 Pol Roger ‘Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill’ @ two-star restaurant Aïra in Stockholm. [ read the full champagne story ]
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TASTING NOTE by Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin
2018 Pol Roger ‘Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill’
(secret blend)
96(92)p
Pure Grand Cru with an estimated 80% pinot noir with Verzenay and Verzy as the base, right? Since it is still a secret after a promise to the Churchill family, we have to guess. There is an obvious problem with the fantastic wines under the Winston Churchill label. They are one of the most pronounced « slow starters » in the champagne world. Unless you are an experienced champagne connoisseur, it is almost impossible to understand the metamorphosis these well-built beauties always undergo. They can feel a little unredeemed and considerably lighter than they actually are to the uninitiated.
In a classic vintage like 2018, it is even more difficult because the winemaking team has made sure to preserve the mineral-infused nerve that is the very backbone of the structure. The fruit therefore feels subdued and stingy, but if you wait a couple of years, all these building blocks will not only sit in the right place but also make room for larger, louder layers of richness. The wine is so stylishly created that there will always be an orange side of orange-dominated aromas accentuated by the still timid coffee notes and the purple plums that pull towards black olives, tar and licorice after the 20-year stretch.
Drink 2038-2050 if you are still around then.
