For the discerning palate of the Champagne Club by Richard Juhlin, we delve into the world of Maido, a culinary institution that embodies a philosophy of constant evolution and rich interculturality, led by the visionary Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura. [ read the full champagne story ]
Estimated reading time: 5 minutes
Maido: A Culinary Journey in Flux and Intercultural Harmony
At the heart of Lima, Peru, lies Maido, a restaurant that invites guests to a “super tasty world” built upon a dynamic gastronomic philosophy. The restaurant posits that “life is movement” and nothing is static or absolute, asserting that we are all in constant flux, much like the Earth, tides, and even the very elements within our bodies. This core belief extends to culinary traditions, which, like family trees, are continually redefined and enriched through intense intercultural exchange—a fundamental aspect of civilization’s history. This philosophy is the very foundation of Maido’s renowned Nikkei cuisine.
The Visionary Maestro: Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura
The guiding force behind Maido is its chef and owner, Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura. Though born in Lima, Peru, Chef Tsumura’s origins trace back to Osaka, Japan. His extensive culinary journey began with formal education in Culinary Arts and Food and Beverage Management at Johnson & Wales University in the United States.
Following his studies, Chef Tsumura embarked on a specialized path in Japanese cuisine, traveling to Osaka, Japan. There, he honed his skills at distinguished establishments such as “Seto Sushi,” where he specialized in sushi, and “Imo to Daikon,” known for its Izakaya-style Japanese tapas. Upon his return to Peru, he contributed his expertise to the Hotel Sheraton, serving as jefe de partida, sous chef, and eventually managing its Food and Beverages department.
It was his profound passion for Peruvian cuisine infused with Japanese techniques and ingredients—the essence of great Nikkei cuisine—that inspired him to create Maido in 2009. His leadership continues to define Maido’s innovative and celebrated culinary identity.
The pod cast – The wine list
episode 11.0
Maido by Mitsuharu
Lima – Peru
The Art of Pairing: ‘Maridaje’ at Maido
Now, for the discerning palate of a Champagne lover, the question inevitably arises: how does one elevate such a culinary masterpiece with the perfect effervescence? Maido, with its nuanced flavours and diverse textures, presents an exciting challenge and a rewarding opportunity for Champagne pairing.
For the initial, lighter courses, particularly the delicate ceviches and pristine raw fish preparations, a Blanc de Blancs Champagne is an absolute revelation. Its vibrant acidity, fine bubbles, and citrus notes, often with hints of toasted brioche, resonate beautifully with the bright Peruvian limes and the subtle sweetness of fresh seafood. Imagine a meticulously crafted Pierre Péters Cuvée Les Chétillons or a crisp Salon 2013, their purity echoing the pristine ingredients on the plate. The chalky minerality of these Champagnes would provide a refreshing counterpoint to the vibrant, almost electrifying flavours of the raw preparations.
As the menu progresses, and the dishes gain in richness and complexity, so too should our Champagne selections. For the legendary 50-hour short rib, a powerful and mature Pinot Noir-dominant Champagne would be exceptional. A glorious Bollinger La Grande Année or a venerable Krug Grande Cuvée would offer the structure, the autolytic complexity, and the subtle notes of dried fruit and spice to stand up to the richness of the beef. The refined acidity would cut through the fat, cleansing the palate and preparing it for the next sublime bite. The subtle umami of the beef would find a beautiful echo in the aged character of these Champagnes.
And for the more adventurous pairings, perhaps with dishes showcasing bolder Peruvian spices or more earthy tones, a Rosé de Saignée Champagne from a house like Louis Roederer’s Cristal Rosé or a deep, rich Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon Rosé could provide an intriguing contrast and complement. Their berry notes, combined with a firm structure and often a touch of spiciness, would create a captivating dialogue with the vibrant elements of the Nikkei cuisine.
Maido is a testament to the power of culinary storytelling, of two cultures intertwining to create something utterly new and profoundly delicious. It is a restaurant that speaks not only to the palate but to the soul, an experience that lingers long after the last bite. And for those of us who believe that life’s greatest pleasures are found in the exquisite convergence of food and wine, Maido, paired with the finest Champagne, offers a truly unparalleled symphony of the senses. This is more than a meal; it is a pilgrimage for the discerning gourmand, and a jubilant celebration of the boundless possibilities of Nikkei cuisine. Indeed, Maido truly means “Welcome” – and what a magnificent welcome it is to the future of gastronomy.
Maido stands as a testament to the idea that true culinary artistry lies in constant evolution and the beautiful fusion of diverse cultures. It’s a place where tradition meets innovation, creating an experience as fluid and enriching as the very concept of life itself. Just as a masterful symphony blends disparate instruments into a harmonious whole, Maido seamlessly weaves Peruvian ingredients and Japanese techniques into a culinary narrative that is both familiar and excitingly new.
