Listen to the podcast – The wine list – episode 10 – on two star Guide Michelin restaurant in Helsinki – Palace [read the full champagne story]
Estimated reading time: 6 minutes
Take in magical views over the harbour from the 10th floor of this modernist building, constructed in 1952 for the Olympic Games. Beautifully delicate modern dishes feature on a multi-course tasting menu packed with well-balanced flavours. These are presented both by the chefs and the top-notch serving team.
Palace Helsinki: A Two-Star Beacon of Finnish Gastronomy and Vinous Excellence
The pod cast – The wine list
episode 10.0
Palace
★★
Helsinki – Finland
[read the full wine list here]
Palace Helsinki: A Two-Star Beacon of Finnish Gastronomy and Vinous Excellence
Perched on the 10th floor of a historically significant building originally constructed for the 1952 Helsinki Olympics, Restaurant Palace offers more than just stunning panoramic views over the city’s harbour and seascape. It stands as a titan of Finnish gastronomy, currently holding the prestigious distinction of two Michelin stars – a testament to its unwavering commitment to excellence since its inception in 1952. Palace holds a unique place in Finnish culinary history, being the first restaurant in the country to receive a Michelin star back in 1987. After a meticulous renovation honouring its original 1950s modernist interior, the restaurant reopened in 2017 under the culinary direction of Head Chef Eero Vottonen, regaining its first star in 2019 and achieving its second in 2022.
Gastronomic Profile: Innovative Nordic Sophistication
At the heart of Palace lies the culinary philosophy of Chef Eero Vottonen. Describing his approach as “simple, clean and focused,” Vottonen, alongside his dedicated team, crafts an “innovative yet sophisticated Nordic dining experience.” This translates to a multi-course tasting menu (currently priced at €250 per person, including water and coffee/tea) that evolves with the seasons, showcasing the best of Finnish and Nordic ingredients, often sourced locally.
The cuisine is rooted in Nordic traditions, utilizing techniques like smoking, salting, and curing, while also embracing open-fire cooking. However, Vottonen skillfully integrates global influences, particularly drawing inspiration from French and Japanese culinary traditions. The result is dishes praised by the Michelin Guide for their beautiful delicacy and well-balanced flavours. Reviews highlight exquisite preparations featuring luxury ingredients like langoustine, King crab, Kagoshima and dry-aged Wagyu beef, and multiple types of caviar (Palace Reserve Rossini Gold, Rossini Oscietra), alongside meticulously sourced local produce like forest mushrooms, Finnish berries, game, and Baltic herring. The menu structure often begins with intricate amuse-bouches and progresses through seafood and meat courses to creative desserts, demonstrating technical precision and a deep respect for ingredients. The aim, as the restaurant states, is “to bring out greatness in the ordinary” while celebrating the extraordinary. A vegetarian menu is available upon request, though a vegan option is not offered.
The Wine Program: Award-Winning Depth and Harmony
Palace’s commitment to excellence extends profoundly to its wine program, recognized internationally for its quality and breadth. The Michelin Guide highlights its “Interesting wine list,” while the esteemed Falstaff guide ranks it among the very best in Finland, noting that “the wines sing in unison” with the refined cuisine.
The restaurant offers curated wine pairings (€220) designed to complement the tasting menu, alongside a sophisticated non-alcoholic pairing option (€100). The cellar boasts prestigious labels and significant depth, particularly evident in its collection of sparkling wines. The restaurant’s prowess in this area is underscored by numerous accolades from Star Wine List, the international guide to great wine lists. Palace has repeatedly won the Gold Star for “Best Sparkling Wine List in Finland” (presented by Nyetimber) in 2024, 2023, 2022, 2021, and previously as “Champagne List of the Year” in 2020. It has also secured the overall “Grand Prix” for the best wine list in Finland multiple times (2023, 2022, 2020) and garnered awards for specific categories like its Austrian and German wine selections, showcasing a well-rounded and expertly curated cellar that goes far beyond Champagne.
The Sommelier Team: Architects of the Vinous Journey
Guiding guests through this impressive wine landscape is a highly professional sommelier team. While specific team composition may evolve, individuals like Sommelier Olli Nurmilahti have been associated with the restaurant’s wine program. Recent awards have been accepted by team members Samuel Muir and Liam Fahy, indicating their key roles.
The service at Palace, including the wine service, is described as top-notch – professional and knowledgeable, yet maintaining an approachable and informal (though dignified) atmosphere. The sommeliers play a crucial role not just in recommending bottles or pairings, but in enhancing the overall narrative of the meal, sharing insights into the wines and their synergy with Chef Vottonen’s creations. Their expertise ensures that each beverage selection elevates the intricate flavours on the plate.
A Sparkling Jewel: The Focus on Champagne
While the entire wine list is lauded, Palace has carved out a particular reputation as a premier destination for Champagne lovers in Finland and beyond. The consistent recognition as having the best sparkling wine list in the country speaks volumes about the quality, diversity, and depth of their Champagne selection.
Master of Wine Heidi Mäkinen, serving as a judge for Star Wine List, commented on the 2024 award-winning list, implying its selections are so intriguing they spark further curiosity rather than simply satisfying thirst. While the full list contains numerous references, examples seen in pairings and reviews include grower Champagnes like Larmandier-Bernier and Jean Vessele (Oeil de Perdix Brut Rosé). Furthermore, Chef Vottonen himself is noted as a ‘Krug Lover,’ suggesting a deep appreciation and likely presence of prestigious Champagne houses within the cellar. Diners can expect a meticulously curated selection spanning different styles, from Blanc de Blancs to Rosés, vintage expressions, and offerings from both renowned houses and smaller growers.
Conclusion
Restaurant Palace Helsinki is far more than just a restaurant with a view. It is a culmination of culinary artistry, historical significance, and vinous passion. Under Chef Eero Vottonen’s guidance, the kitchen delivers technically flawless, innovative Nordic cuisine that respects tradition while embracing modernity. This is perfectly complemented by an award-winning wine program, expertly managed by a dedicated sommelier team, with a particularly brilliant focus on Champagne. Consistently recognized by Michelin and other prestigious guides, Palace offers a truly world-class fine dining experience, solidifying its position as a jewel in the crown of Finnish gastronomy.
