Jacquesson ‘736’

Picture of Richard Juhlin

Richard Juhlin

RJ ON JACQUESSON Jacquesson—founded in 1798 in Châlons-sur-Marne—was one of the first Champagne houses. It didn’t take them long to become a famous firm. Their reputation wasn’t hurt either when Napoleon, visiting the company, bestowed a gold medal on Jacquesson in recognition of their beautiful cellar. America became their foremost export market recently old Jacquesson bottles were found aboard a wreck named the Niantic. By 1867 Jacquesson had already sold one million bottles, but after Adolphe Jacqesson’s death a sharp decline set in. Leon de Tassigny took over in 1920 and bought the fine vineyards they own today in Avize, Aÿ, Dizy, and Hautvillers. Still, the quality didn’t reach the level of the 1800s. For a long time the company played second fiddle, until Jean Chiquet bought the noble house in Dizy in 1974.

Today, the company is run by his two determined sons: Laurent (vintner) and Jean-Hervé (businessman). When I first met Jean-Hervé in 1990, he told me that they were aiming for the very top. All new investments were made with quality in mind. The second pressing was sold, the proportion of reserve wine and oak barrels was increased, a greater amount of grand cru grapes was bought in. Today, this costly venture is beginning to bear fruit. The nonvintage is brilliant, and has now been given a number to differentiate it from the other blends. The pretsige cuvées are now among the best every year. Moreover, they have some of the oldest commercially available Champagnes in their D. T. series. In the future, several exciting mono-cru wines will be launched, so keep your eyes open. The Chiquet brothers won’t give up until they reach the absolute top. Jacquesson is one of the most interesting houses today, giving fantastically good value for money. I am so impressed by their latest release that I awarded them 5 stars!

sa JACQUESSON & FILS ‘CUVÉE 736′  | Dizy | Champagne | Frankrike | Jacquesson & Fils | Swedish importer: Vinovum | Beställningssortimentet 7436 | SBpris 369 sek | 23PN 18PM 59CH | RJpoints 83(88)

TASTING NOTE Since 1990, the brothers has aimed towards the very top. All new investments made ​​with the specific focus of quality. Secondary press is sold , the proportion reserve wine and oak barrels has been increased. Large amount of Grand Cru grapes purchased. Today the costly efforts begins pay back. The multivintage Champagne is brilliant and has now been given a number to distinguish it from the different mixtures . Jacquesson always have a little toasty aroma that comes from the partially wood matured wines. The wine is vinified as usual in that it has been kept on its lees . Regular bâtonnage conducted. No filtering has been implemented before bottling and Jacquesson uses minimal dosage, in this Cuvée only 5 grams. The reason is that they want their fruit shall be emphasized so pure and unblemished as possible and that the style should be dry and healthy. The philosophy is that a good year is a little dosage , worse year a little higher dosage but still low in comparison. 736 is the best cuvée Jacquesson ever done (so far perhaps we should add). A very beautiful youthful creation based on the brilliant vintage of 2008. Reserve wines are from ’06 & ’07. The fruit is more intense and audiences in style than previous cuvées. The wine feels generously fruity in Jacquessons elegant and a little tighter style with clean and stylish fruit. Cuvée 736 has a small toasty scent with hints of red apples and citrus. The taste is dry, elegant with subtle flavor and a hint of citrus, red apples and nuts. The wine has a very long and complex finish. David Sear told us that the company added 15,000 bottles in the cellar of the DT-model, ie a Vinotheque version of the 700 series ! I just love it !

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