Every Friday The no1 Champagne expert in the world will taste new & old Champagne s to give You a tip or two for the weekend. This week it’s time for Pommery.
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This week it was time for Pommery Friday Champagne 3.0 – Pommery ‘Brut Royal’ NV and Pommery ‘Brut Apanage Blanc de Blancs’;
In 1856 Pommery & Greno was founded after having been known as Dubois-Gossart for the previous twenty years. The firm established a sales channel to the English as early as the nineteenth century, and were pioneers with their dry Champagne—quite without dosage. The Marquise de Polignac was one of the first owners, and one of her direct descendants, Prince Alain de Polignac, was for a long time the man in charge of assembling the cuvées. Prince Alain is a fascinating man who, better than any other winemaker, can describe the philosophy behind his winemaking art.
In 1990, Pommery was one of those firms that ended up as part of the powerful Moët-Hennessy Group, and in 2002 Vranken took over. But the house-style remains intact, thanks to Thierry Gasco, who was trained by the prince and still works together with the new skilfull winemaker Clément Pierlot. Pommery is one of the biggest Grand cru landowners.
Besides Pommery’s own grapes, 70 percent of their supply comes from throughout Champagne, and they are vinified in modern style. Pommery is undoubtably a great name in historical terms. The house-style is made up of dry, restrained, pure champagnes with young fruit and an unmistakable steeliness that takes many years to round off. The cuvée de prestige, Louise Pommery, doesn’t fit that description since its silky and soft directly with a pure flowery bouquet from Avize and a soft structure from Aÿ. I have been amazed time and again by the greatness of the older vintages from Pommery.
Only recently I bought a large number of bottles dating from 1911 to 1979, which have lain untouched since birth in the dark recesses of Champagne. Every bottle that I’ve opened has been fantastic. The modern portfolio is also impressive and aristocratic. The vintage wine is the best wine for the cellar. Magnums of the fantastic 2004 is still around and Louis Pommery Rosé is the hidden secret. Each vintage of this delicate and pale nectar is world-class.