The title could be the title of a Bond film and when you have Håkan Guldkula as your lunch company, that association is not completely wrong. Few if any of my friends have such a varied and fascinating life story as Håkan. You may know that I select the wine for his own Champagne Guldkula which is actually number two in sales volume at Systembolaget nowadays. he made a super-career on Wall Street. He developed origin marking of meat already in 2001 because the risk of the development of pandemic in the world. Did you also know that he knows pretty much everyone who is worth knowing? We usually meet a few times a year and talk about strategic choices for Guldkula champagne during long lunches where we have time to discuss the essentials of life while enjoying a tasting menu at one of the capital’s main restaurants. Both Håkan and I have been very corona careful so it was two starving souls who met on a radiantly beautiful autumn day at Djurgården.
I have had the great pleasure of working with Tommy Myllymäki a few times and have always been equally impressed by his incredible precision and accuracy as well as his gentle calm harmonious appearance. Therefore, it is absolutely wonderful that he for the first time received the support he deserves thanks to my old school friend PG Nilsson. Now he has access to one of the country’s most beautiful rooms with corona – friendly ceiling height and Jonas Bohlin’s eminent interior paired with an accurate and casually serving staff of the highest class. Take a look at the pictures and see what lovely creations Tommy conjures up. Of course Nordic appearance, but nothing dogmatic with mora knives and knee pads. Simply perfect seasonal ingredients where only the best is good enough. Tommy’s food is always fresh, light and airy with a clarity reminiscent of Mattias Larsson and Alain Passard. I was at the two-star AOC in Copenhagen two weeks ago and Aira was clearly better, so do not be surprised if the gastro temple on Biskopsudden gets two stars immediately and reaches three stars in a couple of years. The food is almost on the same stratospheric level as Frantzén with a slightly higher minimum level, even though the spectacle at our only three-star luxury restaurant is in a class of its own. The location and aesthetic impression is actually even better at Aira. So take the opportunity to go there before everyone else finds here.
The wines then? This time, the 2017 Carillon Puligny-Montrachet was far superior to the champagne that still deserves a little judgment.
mv Laherte Fréres ‘Extra-Brut Ultradition’
10PN 60PM 30CH
From 8 villages in the vicinity of Chavots and vinified both in tank and on small oak barrels with partial malolactic fermentation and a dosage of 4.5 grams of sugar. A nice and gastronomic wine perfectly suited to the first act of Aira’s tasting menu. Good stringency and a nice balance between spiciness, bread aromas and freshness. However, a little lack of critical minerality and strong fruit. Brilliant wine to fall into the unflattering category “standard champagnes dominated by pinot meunier from low-class villages”. | 74p
RJs Restaurant ranking Aira 96 points (33rd in the world)
THE RESTAURANT – AIRA
AIRA is chef Tommy Myllymäki’s new restaurant located in the royal park of Djurgården in Stockholm. its proximity to the water and connection to nature is a key element, which is highlighted by the large scale architecture.