by TheChampagneSommelier (momentarily possessed by the poetry of bubbles and the rush of time) 1996-1921 [read the full champagne story]
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Reims, April 2025.
A gentle spring breeze caressed the limestone walls of Lanson’s historic headquarters as a chosen few gathered for what would soon prove to be one of the most magical evenings in modern wine history. During Le Printemps des Champagnes — that annual convocation of the Champagne-obsessed — Champagne Lanson opened the gates to its sacred treasury: the Lanson Vintage Collection.
Ah, allow me to whisk you away on a journey, not to one of Paris’s latest fleeting fancies, but to the very heart of Champagne, to the venerable House of Lanson. It was no ordinary evening, but a pilgrimage to the golden vintages of yesteryear.
a symphony of time encapsulated in a bottle
TheChampagneSommelier
We found ourselves within Lanson’s headquarters, a place that breathes history and tradition, where every stone seemed to whisper tales of harvested grapes and the magic of the bubbles. The evening’s main players? None other than seven vintages from their Vintage Collection, a rare assembly spanning a century of champagne making.
Clad in velvet reverence, we glided into the salon where flickering candlelight and muted crystal mirrored our mounting anticipation. The dinner unfolded in La Salle de Réserve, a discreet yet elegant dining room overlooking the ancient cellars where bottles have slumbered for decades — perhaps centuries — time their only companion.
‘Every bottle tells a story, What’s Yours?’
TheChampagneSommelier
The Lanson Vintage Collection Dinner
1996
The Chopin Prélude
The evening commenced — as it should — with the Lanson Vintage Collection 1996, a youthful primadonna with a bright zest and a lively mousse, a golden prelude to the symphony ahead. The wine danced in the glass like a Chopin prélude: crisp lemon zest, roasted hazelnut butter, and a vibrating acidity that defied its 29 years with youthful exuberance. A promising start, albeit a touch impatient in its youthful expression. An opening act so alive it momentarily hushed the room.
1985
An old French gentleman
To accompany a sublime ceviche of sea bass with yuzu, pickled potatoes, raw cream and crispy rice paper leafs came the 1985. Here, time spoke in a velvet whisper. Creamy mousse met complex tones of beeswax, white truffle, and gently oxidized mirabelle. Now we’re talking about a vintage with character, a vinous beauty displaying nascent notes of maturity. A champagne that whispered of and a skilled hand in the winery. 1985, for the night, resembled an old French gentleman:
perfectly aged, impeccably mannered, and still with a twinkle in the eye.
1971
The Rocket Man
Then, a leap back in time to 1971, the evening’s first true miracle, to the tune of Elton John’s ‘Rocket man’ was paired with Turbot ravioli with wild mushrooms, consommé cappuccino and fresh water cress tips. This wine exuded an antique aura: wax, orange zest, a featherlight whisper of peat, and a surprisingly vibrant finish. A vintage that carries history within its depths, a complexity that only time can bestow. A contemplative champagne, inviting reflection. A champagne that murmured silkily from a bygone world, yet with a pulse that still beats.
1964
A vinous illusionist
And then, the true rarities. Then came 1964, and with it, almost tears. Served with Turbot ravioli and the forrest floor notes of the earthy mushrooms, this vintage struck with emotional force. Now one could sense the echoes of a bygone era. A deeper, more intense character with notes of apricot marmalade, dark chocolate, rail road tracks (!) tobacco, apple skin, mushroom, almond, and a fine mineral smokiness and an earthy undertone — a scent and flavor profile that belongs in the Louvre. A vinous illusionist changing shape with each sip. The mousse was softer, almost whispering, but the structure remained, a testament to the vintage’s inherent quality. The wine sang with the weight of a mezzo-soprano and the precision of a master winemaker’s hand. A worthy representative of a classic age. Utter perfection ! Love – Love – Love !
1952
Versailles decadence
The 1952 was more dream than drink. Astonishingly bright in color, which is so typical for the 52s, and astonishingly fresh in structure. The nose was like sticking one’s face into an old bookshelf in Bloomsbury — Here were complex aromas of candied fruit, apricot confit, Tarte Tatin, English fudge, spices, dust, leather, morels, dried chamomile, waxed apple, and an almost ethereal elegance. With it, a generous portion of a version of ‘Cœur de Filet Charolais Renaissance’, a reference to the meal served at Versailles during the 1961 reception of the Kennedys by General and Madame de Gaulle — decadent? Certainly. Necessary? Unquestionably. The sauce was spiced up with Ratafia from 1942. A champagne that demanded attention, rewarding the patient with a unique tasting experience.
1942
Born in the heart of war
When 1942 was poured, a sacred silence fell upon the room. Born in the heart of war, this bottle had preserved a serene inner life. Created amidst the ravages of war, this bottle stood as a silent testament to human resilience. The quintessence of maturity — barely a mousse left, the aromas were profoundly developed, with hints of dried orange peel, nuts, and a subtle oxidative note that added complexity rather than flaw. Yet floral depth, a heady raisin register, and a freshness that defied logic. A poignant experience, a reminder of wine’s ability to outlive the trials of time. A silent toast to those thousands of young men who never came home.
1921
La Légende
And then the finale. 1921 – La Légende. A century of history in a single glass. A vintage as much myth as material. The aroma was unlike anything else: incense, dried orange peel, Earl Grey tea, mahogany, honey, caramel, and an almost balsamic undertone and something best described as the breath of eternity. It tasted like a century’s epilogue — a poetic reminder of what wine becomes when unshackled from time. A rare and awe-inspiring experience, a testament to Lanson’s long and distinguished history.
When the candles dimmed, and the bottles fell silent, we remained — awestruck, illuminated, humbled. The dinner at Champagne Lanson was no mere tasting. It was a liturgy in honor of time, a ceremony for the eternal in what seems fleeting.
The dinner was not merely a tasting; it was a lesson in the impact of time on champagne, a tribute to craftsmanship, and a rare glimpse into the elegance of a bygone era. Each vintage told its own story, a unique journey through decades of harvests and cellar magic.
With this collection, Lanson has presented not only exquisite champagnes but also a sense of continuity and respect for their heritage. It was an iconic evening, one that will resonate in my memory long after the last bubbles have faded. A true triumph for Lanson and an unforgettable experience for the fortunate few who were able to partake in this historic tasting. Santé!
‘In a world of noise, spectacle, and instant gratification, time stood still that evening in Reims.
TheChampagneSommelier
And in that stillness, the bottles spoke.
We listened.
And we will never forget.’
[ a sommelier’d soul in eternal pursuit of lost bubbles ]
