A Symphony of Earth and Elegance: The Perfect Champagne Pairing for Astoria’s Sotad Oxfilétartar. [ read the full champagne story ]
Estimated reading time: 4 minutes
A Symphony of Earth and Elegance: The Perfect Champagne Pairing for Astoria’s Sotad Oxfilétartar
The dish itself is a masterpiece of modern Swedish gastronomy with a global pulse
A base of lightly seared beef fillet tartare is luxuriously draped over grilled marrowbone, its richness a foundation for a dazzling array of accompaniments: piquant soured silver onion, the subtle peppery bite of cress, the satisfying crunch of deep-fried onion, the intoxicating earthiness of black autumn truffle, and the deep umami of soy-pickled shiitake mushrooms.
The combo
To find the perfect champagne partner for this intricate dish is to seek a wine that can dance with a multitude of strong personalities without losing its own identity. The champagne must possess enough acidity and structure to cut through the richness of the beef and marrow, yet have the depth and nuance to complement the earthy truffle and the savory, almost saline, notes of the soy-pickled shiitake.
My mind immediately gravitates towards a champagne with a significant Pinot Noir presence, a Blanc de Noirs or a prestige cuvée with a dominant Pinot Noir backbone. The red grape variety will provide the necessary structure and body to stand up to the beef, while mature expressions will have developed the complex, tertiary notes of mushroom and sous-bois that will resonate beautifully with the truffle and shiitake.
A younger, fruit-forward champagne would be lost in this pairing. We require a wine that has spent considerable time on its lees, developing a creamy texture and bready, toasted aromas that will embrace the savory elements of the dish.
With this in mind, I propose a champagne of a mature vintage, ideally from a Grand Cru village in the Montagne de Reims, renowned for its exceptional Pinot Noir. A vintage Bollinger ‘La Grande Année’, with its rich, muscular style and notes of toasted brioche, dried fruit, and a hint of oxidation, would be a formidable and compelling partner. The wine’s inherent power would match the intensity of the dish, while its complexity would unravel alongside the tartare’s many layers.
Another exceptional choice would be a meticulously crafted grower champagne. I envision a wine from a producer like Egly-Ouriet, whose ‘Les Crayères’ Blanc de Noirs is a testament to the profound depth and minerality that Pinot Noir can achieve in Ambonnay. Its vinous character, concentration, and long, savory finish would not only stand up to but also enhance the umami-rich components of the dish, creating a truly unforgettable gastronomic dialogue.
For those who prefer a touch more Chardonnay in their blend, a mature Dom Pérignon from a classic vintage would also be a spectacular choice. The wine’s signature toasty notes, combined with its vibrant acidity and silky texture, would provide a beautiful counterpoint to the richness of the tartar and marrow, while its inherent elegance would elevate the entire experience.
In essence, the “Sotad oxfilétartar” by Björn Frantzén is a dish that calls for a champagne of contemplation, a wine of substance and soul. It is a pairing that celebrates the earthy depths and the sparkling heights of culinary and vinous artistry. To indulge in this combination is to experience a moment of pure, unadulterated pleasure.
Santé!
